Big Sur History

Big Sur is located along Scenic Highway One approximately 150 miles south of San Francisco and 300 miles north of Los Angeles. Historically, the name Big Sur, was derived from that unexplored and un-mapped wilderness area which lays along the coast south of Monterey. It was simply called El Sur Grande, The Big South. Today, Big Sur refers to that 90-mile stretch of rugged and awesomely beautiful coastline between Carmel to the north and San Simeon (Hearst Castle) to the south. Highway One winds along its length and is flanked on one side by the majestic Santa Lucia Mountains and on the other by the rocky Pacific Coast. Although there were two Mexican land grants awarded in the 1830's, which included most of the area north of the Big Sur Valley, neither grantee settled on the land. It was little more than a century ago when the first permanent settlers arrived in Big Sur. In the following decades other hardy persons followed and staked out their homesteads. The landmarks bear the names of many of those early settlers - Mt. Manuel, Pfeiffer Ridge, Post Summit, Cooper Point, Dani Ridge, Partington Cove and others. Some of their descendants still live in Big Sur.

At the turn of the century Big Sur sustained a larger population than it does today. A vigorous redwood lumbering industry provided livelihoods for many. The Old Coast Trail, which had been the only link between homesteads, was still little more than a wagon trail. Steamers transported heavy goods and supplies and harbored at Notley's Landing, Partington Cove, and the mouth of the Little Sur River.

Navigation was treacherous, and in 1889, the Point Sur Lighthouse Station began sending its powerful beam to protect ships from the hazards of the coastline. In 1937, the present highway was completed after eighteen years of construction at a considerable expense even with the aid of convict labor. The highway has since been declared California's first Scenic Highway, and it provides a driving experience unsurpassed in natural beauty and scenic variety. Electricity did not arrive in Big Sur until the early 1950's, and it still does not extend the length of the coast or into the more remote mountainous areas.

The proximity of the Pacific Ocean provides for a temperate climate. Winters are mild, and rainy days are interspersed with periods of bright sunshine. An average rainfall of over 50 inches fills the many streams that flow down the redwood-lined canyons. Coastal fog cools the summer mornings, but it usually lifts by early afternoon. The best weather is often during the spring and fall. It is wise to include both warm and cold weather clothing when packing for Big Sur. A damp, foggy morning can be followed by a warm afternoon. In the interior valleys of the Wilderness Area, the temperatures are more extreme; the fog bank seldom crosses the coast ridge, so the days are likely to be hot and the nights chilly.

The scenic qualities and the natural grandeur of the coast which result from the imposing geography, the rich vegetative compositions, and the dramatic meetings of land and sea are the area's greatest single attraction to the public. Big Sur has attained a worldwide reputation for its spectacular beauty. Hiking, backpacking and scenic driving are major recreational activities.

Drive carefully. Highway One is one of the best maintained roads in the world, but its sharp curves and steep hills still preclude high speed driving. This breathtaking stretch of coastline has something to offer any visitor. So, relax and enjoy the awesome beauty of the timeless Big Sur Coast.

The history of Big Sur is rich and multifaceted, shaped by the land, its early inhabitants, and the many individuals who have been drawn to its rugged beauty over the centuries. Here’s an overview:

Indigenous Peoples

Before European settlers arrived, the Big Sur area was inhabited by several Native American groups, primarily the Esselen, Ohlone, and Salinan tribes. These groups lived off the land, hunting, fishing, and gathering from the diverse ecosystems. The Esselen people, in particular, inhabited much of the land along the Big Sur coast. Their knowledge of the environment and deep connection to the land is still remembered and respected today.

Spanish Exploration and Settlement

In the 18th century, Spanish explorers led by Gaspar de Portolá arrived on the California coast. The area now known as Big Sur was first mapped and named “El Sur Grande”, meaning “the big south,” referring to its location south of Monterey. The Spanish mission system, which spread through California, reached as far as Monterey, but Big Sur remained largely untouched by European settlement due to its difficult-to-reach geography.

American Period and Development

By the early 19th century, following Mexican independence, the land around Big Sur was granted to private ranchers. However, it wasn’t until the late 1800s that settlers started to establish more permanent homes and small communities in the area. Despite its remote location, the region’s natural beauty began attracting artists, writers, and explorers.

20th Century: The Rise of Big Sur as an Artistic and Literary Haven

In the early 20th century, Big Sur began to garner attention from artists, writers, and thinkers. Henry Miller, the iconic author, made Big Sur his home in the 1940s, writing about his experiences in his book Big Sur and the Oranges of Hieronymus Bosch. His writings and those of Jack Kerouac, who visited in the 1950s, helped cement Big Sur’s reputation as a haven for creativity and counterculture.

In 1937, Highway 1 was completed along the Big Sur coast, making it more accessible but also bringing concerns about overdevelopment. The highway connected Big Sur to the rest of California, but the region’s natural beauty and isolation helped preserve its charm and prevent large-scale development.

Preservation and Environmental Awareness

In the 1960s and 1970s, conservation efforts began to protect the unique landscape of Big Sur. The Big Sur Land Trust was founded, and other environmental organizations played a significant role in preserving the coastline and surrounding wilderness. Big Sur remains one of the few untouched coastlines in California, with strict regulations ensuring its natural beauty is preserved for future generations.

Modern Day Big Sur

Today, Big Sur continues to captivate visitors with its dramatic coastline, towering redwoods, and artistic heritage. It is home to several state parks, including Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park and Julia Pfeiffer Burns State Park, which protect the area’s wilderness. The region’s unique blend of nature, history, and creativity still attracts artists, writers, and travelers from around the world, offering an experience that blends solitude, inspiration, and natural wonder.

Big Sur’s history is an ongoing story—a place where the past and present coexist in harmony, with the land itself continuing to shape the lives of those who encounter it.

Big Sur’s history is not just a story of the past—it’s a continuing journey that you, too, are a part of.